Introducing Your New Cat to Your Household

Bringing a new cat into a home with other animals can be stressful for everyone. But if you take a few precautions and do it gently, it can be a much easier process. Try these steps for a harmonious transition when you have a cat and are bringing a new one into your home. It also helps to let them know ahead of time what to expect. I often hear from the resident cat ,” WHAT is this cat doing in my house?“ You might explain that you are bringing in a new kitty because you feel your cat could use a little cat company (if you feel that is true). The other explanation could be that the new kitty needed a home and that you feel your place is big enough for both of them.

Phase-in Procedure for when your new kitty arrives:

  • House your new kitty for 2-3 days in a bedroom with litterbox, food and water (with the door closed). Visit frequenty to help your new cat feel at home and to get his scent on you so that your resident cat begins to get used to the new one’s scent.
  • Spray the cat cheek pheromone Feliway on the doorjamb at her cheek height and around the legs of chairs and other rubbing spots, in and out of the room. The calming pheromone will ease anxiety for both the host cat and the incoming one.
  • Encourage cats to interact under the door by tossing treats under the door and on the floor in front of the door.
  • After 2-3 days put your resident cat into a room, close the door and allow the new cat to explore the house. The new cat will leave her scent whereever she walks and she will smell the other cat.
  • After a period of exploration, return the new cat to the bedroom and release resident kitty to encounter the scent of the new cat.
  • Alternate releasing and confining each cat for a few days. When they seem relaxed, simply open the guest room door and let the new cat come out when she is ready.

Disregard hissing if it happens. Usually that is just cat language for “Don’t come into my space”. If you stay calm, cats usually just move away from each other. Appropriate “I don’t want to fight behavior” is to slowly move away, curving their bodies gently away. If cats engage in a stare-down which could lead to a fight, help them save face by lowering a visual barrier like a poster board or large piece of cardboard calmly down between them. You can even herd one cat away slowly with the barrier.

  • If you are fortunate enough to have a location where your cat can safely enjoy outside time, keep her inside your home for 8-10 days and then open a door and let her walk out on her own 4 feet. Let her explore at her pace and return to the house if she feels uncertain. Her feet have scent glands and she will leave a scent trail to get back into the house. Always provide a way for her to get back into the house on her own.

Declawing cats

My comments are not meant to guilt trip anyone, just to inform. Many of my animal loving clients are heartbroken to learn this after the fact when they call me to discuss litter box issues. I am amazed that there are still vets who agree to do this procedure. Many countries have recognized the cruelty of this practice and have outlawed it. Before you declaw your kitty, please consider these facts: (from the Humane Society)

Some well known facts about the procedure itself:

  • Declawing traditionally involves the amputation of the last bone of each toe. If performed on a human being, it would be like cutting off each finger at the last knuckle.
  • Medical drawbacks to declawing include pain, infection and tissue necrosis (tissue death), lameness, and back pain.

Some less well known effects of declawing:

  • Declawing can make a cat less likely to use the litter box or more likely to bite. Pain associated with scratching in the box, may lead cats to stop using the litter box. Also, some cats may become biters because they no longer have their claws for defense.

What is the alternative? Cats can be trained just like dogs! Scratching is a natural and necessary activity for a cat. Cats International‘s web site has great information on teaching your cat to scratch only on acceptable surfaces.

Read more information at the Humane Society‘s web site.

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In This Issue: 
Introducing Your New Cat to Your Household
Introducing Kathleen McIntyre
Do-It-Yourself Animal Communication
Tell Us What You Think
Kathleen McIntyre

In an effort to provide more continuous service as your animal communicator, I am creating a joint practice with Kathleen McIntyre. Kathleen specializes in lost animals and will now cover my practice for emergency consults on my days off ( Sunday and Monday). Kathleen considers “true emergencies” to be; lost animals, health issues that are acute and last minute vacation notifications. I trust Kathleen’s integrity and skills. I consult with her on my animals when I feel too involved to be clear. Kathleen can be reached her web site or by calling her at 828-216-5030.

Do-It-Yourself Animal Communication
“Just wanted to thank you again for all your help and advice. Gabe calmed down so much after our session and seems a lot happier. Also “caught” him sitting with his back to Gordon by the baby gate — just like Gordon wanted.Your CD is incredibly helpful about projecting positive images and language to get desired results, so I’ve been revamping my corrections accordingly!”

Cathy W. of Stratford CT

“Talk to Your Animals in a Language They Understand”. This is the most basic and simple part of animal communication, and if practiced, can resolve lots of problems before they even occur. The cost is $12 (price includes shipping and handling) and you can pay by paypal – use the button below and don’t forget to include your address.


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